Tocllaraju is one of the six thousand accessible mountains, located in the Ishinca Valley. It is generally recommended to have good acclimatization and technical level required for its climbing.
If you want to do this type of climbing, it is necessary to acclimatize previously for several days and be in good physical/technical conditions
The itinerary is a model to follow, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in government regulations or another force majeure may cause this program to vary.
We will start our expedition from the city of Huaraz on a private bus, which will take us to Cochapampa. Here the muleteers will be waiting for us and they will take all the equipment to the base camp. The approximate journey up the valley from the Queñuales is approximately 4 to 5 hours.
We will begin the day checking and packing our climbing equipment before heading out to our next camp, then we will begin hiking uphill through a zigzagged trail around 3 to 4 hours approximately until we reach the moraine camp. Here we will spend the night.
We will begin climbing at around 2 am towards the summit for about 6 to 7 hours. At the final point of the climb before crowning the summit we will reach a wall of about 90m that we will need to surpass and will make our climb a lot more fun. Once we reach the summit, we are met with stunning views of the neighboring mountain peaks that will be visible from different angles such as the Huascaran, Santa Cruz, Ranrapalca, etc. After a brief break we will return to the Morena Camp to pack our equipment and continue to the Base Camp.
On the 4th day, we will hike around 3 to 4 hours through the hiking trail down the valley to Cochapampa, where we finish our hike and return by bus to Huaraz approximately 1 ½ hour.
This program is designed exclusively for private groups in order to provide you a better experience. We have local certified guides and support team at your disposal. If you have any questions regarding our packages and pricing options please feel free to contact us.
Summer 2023 Alex guided me on the Tocllaraju west face and we tried to climb siula grande SSE face. The tocllaraju face and the complex upper section was in perfect condition and we had a truly great experience when Alex made short work of the dificult terrain. We had time for pictures and the climbing was verry enjoyable. Base camp was compfy with great coocking and a nice team to suport us. The siula expedition we had a wonderfull team and basecamp. Alex knew where the dangers where and how to mitigate risks, on the complex glacier we learned the face wasnt in condition and we decided wiseley not to attempt the summit, witch i believe to be a good call. The suport team from the basecamp followed us on this extreme glacier to give us the best chances of succes. This was mind blowing given the state of the glacier that was more crevases than glacier with some sketchy snow bridges.
Alex is a great guide and i would advise chosing him as your guide because:
1. His english is good and his communication skills are excellent.
2. He is safe and fast on tecnically dificult terrain optimizing your chance on a succesful summit whilst mitigating risks
3. He knows when to push and he and his team do everything in their abilities to ensure a succesful expedition but does know verry well when to turn around if succes is not in the cards.
4. He’s a fun guy to hang out with and enjoy some cerviche
