The Huascaran is a massif mountain located in the cordillera blanca of the Peruvian Andes and is the highest tropical mountain in Peru. Surrounded by numerous peaks over 5000 masl. It is located within the boundaries of the provinces of Yungay and Carhuaz in the Ancash region, pertaining to the Huascaran National Park.
If you want to do this type of climbing, it is necessary to acclimatize previously for several days and be in good physical/technical conditions.
The itinerary is a model to follow, however, situations such as natural disasters, climate change, landslides, political unrest, strikes, demonstrations, changes in government regulations or another force majeure may cause this program to vary.
Our expedition starts in Huaraz, we go by bus to Musho town (it is located in the NE part of Huaraz), where we will start our walk, passing through the eucalyptus forests, until we reach the base camp with a duration of 4 – 5 hours approx.
This day we will begin our ascent, crossing rock plates, composed of granite until we reach the glacier, then we will continue through a glacier until we exceed 5260m where we will install our high camp. 5 to 6 hours approx.
We will begin our ascent at dawn, towards the next high camp; to avoid possible falls of seracs, in an avalanche zone. 4 hrs approx.
Our ascent begins at approximately 1:00 am, overcoming various technical difficulties, between corridors, cracks, and seracs; we will reach the top. From the summit, a beautiful mountain range of the Cordillera Blanca can be appreciated. Finally, we will descend to Camp 2, where we will spend the night. Day of 12 hours approx.
We will start our descent by the same route ascent. 4 to 5 hours approx.
We will descend from the Huascaran base camp to Musho town, walking for about 3 hours. Transfer by private bus to Huaraz, 2 ½ hours in transport.
Private transportation (according to the program)
Certified and qualified UIAGM/AGMP Mountain Guide (2 clients maximum per guide)
Assistant guide (UIAGM candidate), with more than 2 clients
Specialized high mountain cook
Kitchen assistant (large groups)
Kitchen utensils
Food during the program (breakfast, lunch, and dinner)
Porter support (high mountain assistant, who transfers collective equipment to the high camps).
Mules and muleteers support (who transfer the camp equipment and personal equipment to the base camp).
Collective first aid kit
Collective technical equipment
Camping equipment (kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, table, chairs)
Huascarán National Park entrance ticket/permits
Camping tents (2 to 3 people per tent)
We make this kind of climbing expeditions privately, to give you a better experience. We have guides, auxiliary personnel fully local and certified. If you have any questions, please contact us, to solve your doubts and know the price of the packages.
I recently summited Huascarán, and I cannot recommend my guide, Alex, highly enough. If you are looking for a guide who balances technical expertise with genuine care for his clients, Alex is the person to go with.
From the start, it was clear that Alex’s main objective was safety. He has an incredible eye for detail, constantly assessing the terrain and our gear to ensure everything was perfect. We climbed as a duo, and despite the challenges of a soloed expedition, I felt completely secure under his leadership.
What I appreciated most was his patience. He never rushed me; instead, he was incredibly attentive to my rhythm and made sure I was comfortable with my pack load throughout the entire trek. It made the grueling sections of the climb much more manageable and allowed me to actually enjoy the experience rather than just endure it.
The entire expedition went off without a single complication, thanks to Alex’s thorough preparation and professionalism. If you’re planning to take on a serious peak in the Cordillera Blanca, do yourself a favor and book with Alex.
